Jewelry Knowledge & Education

What is cubic zirconia?

When people hear “zircon,” many immediately think of a cheap alternative to diamonds. However, what they usually have in mind is not natural zircon, but cubic zirconia (CZ) — a synthetic material. Because cubic zirconia is so widely used and its full name is rather long and awkward, many in the industry simply call it “zircon” for short. Over time, this shorthand has become so common that it has largely overshadowed natural zircon itself.

In the early 20th century, before various diamond simulants emerged, colorless natural zircon was actually a popular diamond alternative. But as we know, cubic zirconia, moissanite, and later lab-grown diamonds eventually came onto the scene. Today, the best diamond simulants, in our view, rank as follows: lab-grown diamonds > moissanite > cubic zirconia. Natural zircon is now rarely used as a diamond simulant, because the other three materials can be mass-produced in a wide range of sizes and specifications, giving them a significant advantage.

Basic Information about Cubic Zirconia

  • Chemical composition: ZrO₂
  • Crystalline state: Crystalline
  • Hardness: 8.5 (Mohs scale)
  • Specific gravity: 5.6–6.0
  • Dispersion index: 0.058–0.066
  • Meaning / symbolism: Classified as fashion jewelry — an affordable gemstone that can serve as a substitute for diamonds.
  • Color varieties: Can be produced in many colors, commonly colorless, red, pink, blue, yellow, orange, etc.

History & Popularity

Cubic zirconia was first synthesized in a laboratory in 1976 and soon entered commercial production. Although its initial purpose was industrial applications, people quickly recognized its undeniable charm and potential. Thanks to its affordability, durability, and attractive appearance, CZ became extremely popular. By the early 1980s, it is estimated that over 50 million carats of cubic zirconia were produced annually for jewelry worldwide.

cubic zirconia jewelry

Key Characteristics of Cubic Zirconia

High Dispersion (Fire)

Dispersion refers to the phenomenon that produces “fire” (flashes of rainbow-colored light). The higher the dispersion, the more visible the fire. When light passes through cubic zirconia, it creates a very striking rainbow spectrum. In comparison, diamond’s fire is clearer and more subtle, while cubic zirconia sparkles with more vivid, multicolored flashes. Some consumers may find this too flashy, while others love its brilliant rainbow brilliance.

Color

Cubic zirconia crystals are naturally colorless and transparent. By adding certain trace elements, they can also be produced in colors such as orange-red, rose red, yellow, purple, green, tea, and jet black. Completely colorless natural diamonds are extremely rare — most diamonds have a slight yellowish or brownish tint. Cubic zirconia, however, can be manufactured to the highest diamond color grade: D color (completely colorless).

Flawless Finish

With today’s technology, cubic zirconia can be produced to be essentially flawless. In contrast, finding a completely inclusion-free natural diamond is rare and often prohibitively expensive.

Explore our cubic zirconia jewelry collection. If you’re looking to create your own designs, we’d be happy to help bring your ideas to life. Feel free to reach out to learn more about the possibilities.

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